Take a drive through the Serra de Tramuntana mountains on the west coast of Mallorca and you’re sure to discover this spectacular village with its terraced citrus groves and houses tumbling down towards the Mediterranean Sea. Offering a modest selection of eateries but a generous slice of the ‘Real Mallorca’, a world away from the tourist hordes elsewhere on the island. Just remember the opening times for most places are typically Spanish, open late morning (often 10AM), closed for siesta and back open in the evening.
A generous menu of tapas and a warm, casual welcome take Es Trast straight to the #1 spot. The prices are reasonable too and it’s obviously a favourite of the locals judging by the number of them enjoying snacks and conversation out the front in the summer. What’s more, they offer a fantastic wine selection (mostly Spanish and Mallorcan) and some tempting desserts. Aim for a table out the back in the magical little courtyard.
You just can’t leave Mallorca without trying an ensaimada, the traditional Mallorcan breakfast and vaguely similar to a croissant in a spiral form (shhh, don’t tell any Mallorcan I said the last bit). Freshly baked, they’re available plain, filled with cream or studded with apricots then dusted with icing sugar just prior to purchase. Ask for them to be put into a specially-designed box if you want to take some home. Tends to open at 10AM.
The real selling point of Cafe Bellavista is the stunning views from the terrace across the surrounding groves down to the sea. A modest menu of coffee, alcohol, snacks, cakes and pastries is on offer; do your best to get a seat right at the edge of the terrace and the friendly bar staff will come over and ask you what you’d like. And, of course, be sure to pay at the bar on your way out.
No Spanish holiday is complete without having paella, the classic rice dish popular throughout Spain. At the time of writing this post the only place in the village to cure your paella craving is Ca’n Paco restaurant, somewhat hidden but well signposted just down the hill from the main street. I recommend the vegetable paella with its seasonal vegetables, but we would’ve loved to have seen a chicken and chorizo option on the menu. The service is classically Spanish too; informal and extremely friendly.
When the time comes at the end of your trip to buy gifts and mementos there are plenty of options in the village to buy them from, but by far the best choice is Delicatessen d’Aqui. Here you’ll find produce from all over the island including beer from nearby Soller, local Malvasia wine, olive oil from Alcudia and some cute handmade gifts crafted right there in the tiny shop.
Also try… Dine alfresco underneath the olive tree at 1661 Cuina de Banyalbufar; a little on the pricey side & best reserved for a “special treat”, I highly recommend the Iberico pork loin with morel mushrooms. Buy meats, cheeses, bread, fruit and refreshments from the village and take the steep walk downhill to one of the coves for a picnic. Visit the tiny Malvasia de Banyalbufar bodega (wine shop) to taste the local wines made from the Malvasia grape, and perhaps even buy some too!! Head along the main road south-west out of the village and you find a roadside bar called San Tomas with a great selection of cold beers. Join the local “mammas” at siesta time enjoying respite and refreshments on one of the roadside benches, these old ladies rule supreme around here but offer you a cheery “hola”!
Where to stay… With it’s reasonable prices, perfect location and friendly service I would highly recommend staying at the 2-star Sa Baronia. No matter many nights you stay you should definitely take breakfast on the terrace at least once; bread, cakes, pastries, fruit, orange juice, coffee, cured meats, cheeses and a fantastic view to go with it. There are also evening meals available and a well-stocked cafebar too. The rooms are basic and clean, but specify a beautiful sea view (the sea breeze counteracts the lack of air conditioning) and you won’t be disappointed! Just be aware that the hotel’s car park is a fair distance from the hotel.
#foodiesnapshots #banyalbufar #mallorca